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Shell helix premium 5w40

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 19:11
od BAKALAKA
Zdar pani

Co hovorite na tento olej? CHystam sa ho naladovat do mojho ca18det hned jak ho dokoncim.

Re: Shell helix premium 5w40

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 19:41
od kenivruh
BAKALAKA píše:Zdar pani

Co hovorite na tento olej? CHystam sa ho naladovat do mojho ca18det hned jak ho dokoncim.
No ja by som ho tam nedal. Pride mi malo viskozny na turbo motor v nasom veku. Radsej 10w40 plosyntetiku. Alebo ked chces viac tlacit na pilu (teda motor) tak potom 10w60.

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 19:47
od kenivruh
Len taka otazocka. Co to je za olej Shell Helix Premium ? Som o takom Shell oleji nepocul a ani som ho nenasiel na stranke Shellu.

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 19:56
od blázen
na zimu dobrý...

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 20:03
od kenivruh
blázen píše:na zimu dobrý...
Na zimu ? Sak zacina leto :D :D :D

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 20:19
od BAKALAKA
kenivruh píše:Len taka otazocka. Co to je za olej Shell Helix Premium ? Som o takom Shell oleji nepocul a ani som ho nenasiel na stranke Shellu.
Tento olej mi doviezol jeden kamarat za dobru cenu, zevraj urceny na nemecky trh ci co. Dal mi knemu aj slovensky pokec a pise sa tam ze je velmi dobry na turbomotory aj v extremnych podmienkach.

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 20:53
od Morpheus
Proč všichni lijete polosyntetiku 10W40?5w40plna by přece měla být ve všech směrech lepší. Jestli se mýlim, rád bych věděl kde. Podle mě turbomotor=plná syntetika. Nechci se hádat, ale rád bych věděl něco více.

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 20:59
od Kentoya
nikde není napsáno že 5w40 je plná syntetika, není problém koupit 5w40 minerál a 10w40 plnou syntetiku, to jen na úvod, osobně klidně si do motoru taky naleju 5w40 od shellu, ale protože nejezdím v zimě, není to pro mne důležité, osobně jsem 5w40 od shelu, lil do shade,

tady (dvoukilo) používám oleje s molybden sulfidem (10w40) a vím proč, a uvažuji a taky tam naleju brzo 20w50 s molybdensulfidem a taky vím proč,

jinak klidně tam 5w40 nalej, motoru neublížíš, maximálně kdyby ti to žralo moc oleje přejdi na něco jiného

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 21:44
od kenivruh
Morpheus píše:Proč všichni lijete polosyntetiku 10W40?5w40plna by přece měla být ve všech směrech lepší. Jestli se mýlim, rád bych věděl kde. Podle mě turbomotor=plná syntetika. Nechci se hádat, ale rád bych věděl něco více.
5w40 je podla mna na nas motor (a vseobecne vykonne turbo motory) prilis riedky (jedine ze jazdis na tom aute do roboty par kilometrov). Nech si pise vyrobca co chce, ked ma raz olej nizku viskozitu pri vyssej teplote tak je na nic. A si pis ze u nasho motora dosiahnes teplotu oleja 100 stupnov ani nemrknes. Staci par krat to vytocit na trojke. Preto doporucujem minimalne 10w40 (prve cislo vacsinou urcuje viskozitu pri nizkej teplote, druhe pri vysokej, ale to zase neznamena ze 5w40 a 10w40 maju rovnaku viskozitu napr. pri 100 stupnoch, 10w40 ma vyssiu).

Napr. ale 20w50 povazujem za extrem, pretoze ten olej je dost husty pri nizkej teplote, ale v lete to nevadi :)

No a co sa tyka mineral vs. polo vs. full, tak o tom je toho na webe uz popisane vela. Zjednodusene sa da povedat, ze do starych motorov sa full nedava a nejaky dovod uz tam je ;) Ked si ale spravis motor komplet z novych dielov, das tam na vsetko tesne tolerancie tam tam mozes full kludne davat.

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 21:54
od Morpheus
Ok. díky za vysvětlení. Co se týče staršího motoru a po generálce, slyšel jsem, že když do staršího motoru naliješ plnou syntetiku, tak uvolní komplet karbon v motoru a dělá to neplechu, je na tom něco pravdy?

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 22:01
od kenivruh
Morpheus píše:Ok. díky za vysvětlení. Co se týče staršího motoru a po generálce, slyšel jsem, že když do staršího motoru naliješ plnou syntetiku, tak uvolní komplet karbon v motoru a dělá to neplechu, je na tom něco pravdy?
Ono tie "rozpustace" su uz teraz viacmenej vo vsetkych olejoch (aspon sa tym chvalia vyrobcovia) takze toto asi nezavisi od toho ci je full alebo nie. Skor ide o to ze full su redsie a lahsie preniknu tam kde nemaju :)

Napsal: 30.04.2007, 22:17
od kenivruh
Aby to neznelo, ze som proti syntetike:
Obrázek

Ako pisal kentoya daj ju tam a uvidis ci nikde netecie resp. ci sa nespaluje olej (najcastejsi problem zo syntetikou).

Napsal: 01.05.2007, 08:39
od raddy
ak chces vediet jednoznacnu odpoved, tak si musis zmerat maximalne teploty oleja ktore dosiahnes pri tvojom style jazdy a podla nich sa rozhodnut pre viskozitnu triedu. 10W-40 su dobre do cca 100st, 10W-50 do cca 110st a 10W-60 do cca 120st. V tomto teplotnom rozsahu maju IDEALNU viskozitu.Nie je to ich maximalna teplota, ta sa pohybuje (v rovnakom poradi) 120, 130, 140st cca.

tu je dobry clanok na tuto temu:

Might be worth doing a search but i would say a 10w 40 or 15w 40 for everyday driving and if you do track work a 10w 50 or 15w 50,

it is very important to match the right grade oil to your driving style

This is copyd out of the opie oils section and is a good read

All grades of oil are measured at 100degC and this determines the actual SAE viscosity of the oil.

OEM's are aware of this and spec their oils to this requirement i.e. the thickness that the engine needs at 100degC, at all temps lower than this the oil will always be thicker.

So for example on these cars the stock recommendation is sae 30 or sae 40 which means that the engine need between 11cst and 14cst at 100degC as an ideal viscosity.

So we know what the engine needs in stock form but once modding takes place or hard use that causes higher engine temperatures it changes the parameters outside of the OEM's recommended range either for quality or viscosity or both.

If the engine is running excessive temperatures above 120degC then the oil can become too thin (depending on quality of course) through the shearing or thinning down that takes place, in extreme cases this can lead to metal to metal contact. So in these cases we recommend stepping up a grade to compensate viscosity wise.

However many owners who mod their cars add larger oil coolers to keep the oil within reasonable limits and there is once again a danger associated with this - Over cooled oil!

In these cases, the oil can remain too thick due to it never becoming thin enough which can lead to cavitation, air entrainment and in severe cases starvation in the bearings.

The OEM's specs viscosity wise are there for a reason, the engine is designed to run on a particular grade of oil but car enthusiasts always unwittingly change these perameters as far as oil is concerned.

We have had long discussions with Silkolene on this one with regards to the PRO S and PRO R but cannot vouch for other brands of unknown quality, the Silkolene is a very good race oil.

They say you should look to switch from 5w-40 if the oil temps in the sump exceed 120DegC and that the 10w-50 is capable at 140-150degC although at these temps expect to change it on a more regular basis.

The optimum temps at which these oils work is based on the design perameters and oil temperatures. What I mean by this is that you are looking to achieve a certain viscosity, 11-14cst at 100degC, 30cst is too thick and below 11cst is too thin.

I posted this recently and perhaps it will be better understood by reading what I have posted here but believe me 10w-60 is too thick if your engine runs bulk oil temps in the sump of under 100degC, you're better off using a 5w-40 as it is much closer to the correct OEM spec.

............Temp. for 30cSt (Deg. C).......Temp. for 15cSt.......Temp. for 10cSt

5W/40..................71...........................9 0........................117..............
10W/40................70...........................99. .......................118...............
10W/50................80...........................109 .......................130..............
10W/60................89...........................119 .......................142..............

For your cars the optimum temps on the various viscosities listed on the left is in the middle column as this will roughly produce around the correct viscosity for the engine. EG a 5w-40 at 90 to 100degC is perfect.

As for drain periods, they recommend 10 track hours so long as fuel dilution is not excessive or around 9000 road miles.

One of the biggest mistakes modified car owners make is to cool the oil to 90degC or less and use a thick oil like 10w-60.

As I've said before there are big risks with doing this added to the fact it wastes BHP at the wheels and causes more friction, heat and wear to the engine. Many people believe that thicker oils cool better and are better for big turbos but the fact is it's the complete opposite which is the fact!

I hope this helps to explain, my fingers hurt!

Napsal: 01.05.2007, 08:53
od kenivruh
Keby to niekoho zaujimalo, tak tuto si moze pozriet parametre olejov Valvoline:

http://www.valvolineeurope.com/pi_sheet ... s/SynPower

No a podla toho co pise hore a parametrov roznych olejov asi zmenim VR1 10w60 za 5w50 :)

Napsal: 01.05.2007, 09:03
od raddy
no ja som sa tiez ulakomil na VR1 :oops:
skoda ze v clanku sa udava viskozita v inych jednotkach ako v pdf suboroch valvoline....